[img http://starthaus.com/docs/2010-blizzard-titan-cronus.jpg]

The Blizzard Titan Cronus is in the middle of the width range for our “medium” all mountain category. This ski is also in the middle of the range as far as soft snow vs. hard snow capabilities so it might well be the ultimate “tweener” ski in the tweener category. The 2010 ski has been upgraded over the prior year with a bit stiffer flex in the midsection of the ski. The new version also utilizes the IQ max system which integrates the binding into a wide channel milled into the ski. As an added bonus, you can get the Cronus without a binding and utilize the IQ max “slider” which is a blank plate that slides into the channel. The plate offers the ability to mount any new binding and most older ones on it. This plate can then slide fore and aft in the channel allowing seven different mounting positions. This is a great benefit for those that like to “tune” their position on the ski for different conditions or preferences. We think that the slider plate is so versatile that we have decided to carry the wider, soft snow oriented Blizzards with the slider system rather than the integrated binding.

I skied the 2010 Cronus quite a few times during the latter part of the ’09 ski season. During that period I encountered every condition that you can imagine that Tahoe could throw out at you. I found that you could lay out big GS turns or snap off quicker turns in the fall line with equal ease. The Cronus is grippy enough for all but the very hardest snow conditions and also will handle moderate powder and substantial crud with ease. I find that the overriding feel on the Cronus is nimble. The ski is quick and light feeling on the snow due to a very light swing weight in the tip and tail. On the trails when the snow is really hard, the Cronus grips well enough to be comfortable. When you duck into the trees or traverse out into a bowl, you find that the Cronus wants to dance with the terrain rather than bully it. When skiing down a chute toward some trees below, I found that the Cronus was easy to smear into a quick turn and was willing and easy in the bumps for a ski of this width. One time last year, I skied the Cronus along with several other mid width skis on a day following a 12” storm. Within the range of say mid 80’s to mid 90’s waist widths, I find the Cronus to have very close to an Ideal combination of width, quickness, stability and grip. This kind of combination is what defines the concept of the “one ski quiver” and the Cronus could well be just that. This is among my personal favorites in the mid width group.

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EOF; $title = << word_characters(trim($title)), 'body' => word_characters(trim($body)), 'post_time' => '10:35 PM', 'post_date' => 'Sunday, November 1, 2009', 'author_name' => 'Nick Schaffner', 'author_email' => 'nick@53x11.com', 'html_title' => preg_replace('/^http:\/\/\w+\.[A-z]+\/[0-9]+\/[0-9]+\/|\.html/','','http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/11/2010-blizzard-cronus-review.html'), 'permalink' => 'http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/11/2010-blizzard-cronus-review.html', 'comment_count' => '0 Comments', 'comment_link' => 'https://www.blogger.com/comment/fullpage/post/5450795819692377560/6473962218241196263' ); /* */ $body = <<Virtually every ski today comes from the factory with a high quality stone grind, and often the base edge is “relieved” from the base material. This is a description for a factory process where the base steel is made roughly parallel to the base material, but set very slightly below the level of the plastic. When you, your coach, or your favorite shop inspect the factory base bevel, be sure to determine if the base side steel is actually angled (and how much) or if it is relieved.

One way to check your base bevel is to lay your true bar across the ski and carefully hold the bar flush against one base edge, testing in several spots along both edges of the ski. If you can lay the true bar flush against the steel, you have a base angle. Does the true bar just touch the corner of the steel & the base material? If so, you have base edge relief. Now examine the gap that is present on the other side of the true bar. Measure this gap in several places along the length of the ski. Ideally, it is consistent throughout the ski’s length. I like to see between 1-2 mm of consistent gap under the true bar – of course this is personal, and you need to test yourself to decide what is best. I also like to use an old gap dwelling tool or valve clearance guide to measure this distance (bonus points if you have one lying around!).

Many athletes will choose to start at one half degree and test from there. Remember, it is always easier to increase base bevel angle. Decreasing the angle requires extensive, precise, and very skilled stone grinding. Be sure to set every ski you own for that given discipline at the same angle, and check for consistency of angle throughout the season.
As far as the actual technique of applying the base bevel, just follow a few simple guidelines:The base bevel is the "heart & soul" of the ski. Small changes in the bevel contribute drastically to the skis on snow feel, performance, and ski-ability.

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EOF; $title = << word_characters(trim($title)), 'body' => word_characters(trim($body)), 'post_time' => '2:30 PM', 'post_date' => 'Friday, July 3, 2009', 'author_name' => 'Nick Schaffner', 'author_email' => 'nick@53x11.com', 'html_title' => preg_replace('/^http:\/\/\w+\.[A-z]+\/[0-9]+\/[0-9]+\/|\.html/','','http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/base-beveling-explained.html'), 'permalink' => 'http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/base-beveling-explained.html', 'comment_count' => '0 Comments', 'comment_link' => 'https://www.blogger.com/comment/fullpage/post/5450795819692377560/7317110640818878720' ); /* */ $body = <<A serious online presence has been on our "to-do" list for a few years now. We are proud to finally launch this new realization of starthaus.com. Make sure to check out our two biggest additions.

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EOF; $title = << word_characters(trim($title)), 'body' => word_characters(trim($body)), 'post_time' => '1:19 PM', 'post_date' => 'Thursday, July 2, 2009', 'author_name' => 'Nick Schaffner', 'author_email' => 'nick@53x11.com', 'html_title' => preg_replace('/^http:\/\/\w+\.[A-z]+\/[0-9]+\/[0-9]+\/|\.html/','','http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/new-starthauscom.html'), 'permalink' => 'http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/new-starthauscom.html', 'comment_count' => '0 Comments', 'comment_link' => 'https://www.blogger.com/comment/fullpage/post/5450795819692377560/1588607213100121717' ); /* */ $body = <<A good friend said to me recently, “wax is like a language.” The best World Cup technicians work with only 1 (about half) or 2 wax languages, never 3. However, waxing and tuning skis is their job, and they are the best in the world (just as their athletes are the best it the world). You should strive to learn simply 1 waxing language.

Take a look at the waxing chart that you are using with the wax you have. Examine how your system deals with the variables: snow temp, snow humidity, event, air temp, air humidity, and snow structure. The nature of the waxing system, its language, will be revealed.

Generally, most systems rely on snow temperatures as the primary info that you need to have. However, how many parents and coaches alike listen to the weather report for race day and make the wax decision based on the weatherman? One good thing in your favor is that snow temperatures are very slow to change, unlike air temps. So a thermometer in the snow at Stowe will be quite accurate (for junior USSA & FIS racing) when the race is at Burke or Sugarbush the next day.

Next, take a look at the snow’s humidity. This is simple – try to make a snowball. No chance –the snow is dry. A weak snowball indicates middle humidity snow, and a sticky, wet, big snowball indicates high snow humidity. This is important. All Holmenkol wax can be easily adapted for the snow’s humidity through the addition of GW-25 to the wax in any percentage needed.

After that, examine the snow’s structure. Is the snow fresh, with sharp edges? Is it transformed new snow, where the edges are broken off? Snowmaking snow? Has it melted and re-frozen? How big or small are the snow crystals? Holmenkol allows for adaptation of the wax based on the snow’s aggressiveness using a product called Ultra, a hardener.

Lastly, what is the air humidity and temperature? You can always get the air temps at different altitudes from the weather service, but the air humidity at snow level can only be accurately determined by having the proper tool, a hygrometer. At World Cup, the readings from the hygrometer must be taken at the same time of day as the start, since airflow up & down the mountain changes throughout the day. Many waxes adapt for high air humidity with overlay products, which can be in the form of sticks, pastes, or powders that are usually applied just on race days.

After you have all this information, you are ready to wax fast for the next day. Take a look again at your wax chart to see how your wax’s “language” interacts with the information you have just gathered. This will tell you the most about the nature of the system you are using.

Remember, in the words of Willi Wiltz, (USST Men’s Speed Tech) “the fastest thing I put on your skis today is you!”

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EOF; $title = << word_characters(trim($title)), 'body' => word_characters(trim($body)), 'post_time' => '1:19 PM', 'post_date' => 'Friday, January 9, 2009', 'author_name' => 'Nick Schaffner', 'author_email' => 'nick@53x11.com', 'html_title' => preg_replace('/^http:\/\/\w+\.[A-z]+\/[0-9]+\/[0-9]+\/|\.html/','','http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/language-of-wax.html'), 'permalink' => 'http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/language-of-wax.html', 'comment_count' => '0 Comments', 'comment_link' => 'https://www.blogger.com/comment/fullpage/post/5450795819692377560/5125456045359060023' ); /* */ $body = <<Most everyone is now very close to their peak of competition for the season – the races that count the most are upon us all. Whether it is VT state championships, Junior Olympics, US Nationals (Whiteface, NY), FIS finals (Nakiska, CAN), or NCAA championships (Dartmouth, NH), everyone wants to reach their peak for the season in the next 30 days.

Your effort, hard work, dedication, training, and the efforts of your program & coaches have all gotten you to this point. Paying attention to the details can help to turn a good result into a great one. At Holmenkol, we believe that the skis preparation is worth 5% of the total time. 95% is all you. The other 5% can be worth 6.5 seconds over a 1:30 downhill course!

Here’s a checklist of things to look over right now, while the last period of training is underway.
  • Look closely at each pair of skis you race or train on. Check your base & side edge angles the whole length of the ski. Inspect for base wear (using a true bar) to be sure that all of your skis are equally flat across the base. If your skis are not all the same, with a good structure (that has been run in), consult your coach immediately. You may seek out a fresh stone grind, followed by an overnight hot box wax treatment, if necessary. Remember, the goal of incremental daily maintenance is that your skis don’t need to be flattened or changed before competition.

  • I like to apply an inexpensive fluoro crème wax to the topsheet and sidewalls (about $10). This repels water & abrasive spring snow, making you noticeably faster!

  • Check to be sure you have the right waxes for spring in the right quantities: cleaning wax, warm & cold hydrocarbon training (alphamix & betamix), fluor base wax in both warm & cold, and high fluor waxes in the appropriate ranges (SF 0/2, SF 0/7, SF 0/10).

  • Talk to your coaches to determine who purchases & applies overlays. Know what you need and know whether you or your team is buying so there are no surprises!

  • Remember, if you apply fluoros, you need to remove them after racing to keep your skis fast!

  • Be sure to have a new role of Fiber Fleece. Use this to remove dust & dirt just before waxing each layer. Most folks skip this step, and end up pushing quite a bit of dirt and dust back into the ski, making it slow.

  • Most importantly, stay focused and have fun! Remember, the fastest thing you can put on your skis is you!

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EOF; $title = << word_characters(trim($title)), 'body' => word_characters(trim($body)), 'post_time' => '1:12 PM', 'post_date' => 'Thursday, January 8, 2009', 'author_name' => 'Nick Schaffner', 'author_email' => 'nick@53x11.com', 'html_title' => preg_replace('/^http:\/\/\w+\.[A-z]+\/[0-9]+\/[0-9]+\/|\.html/','','http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/competition-ski-prep.html'), 'permalink' => 'http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/competition-ski-prep.html', 'comment_count' => '0 Comments', 'comment_link' => 'https://www.blogger.com/comment/fullpage/post/5450795819692377560/9150493077512831102' ); /* */ $body = <<With spring’s arrival comes corn snow, sunshine, and lots of great racing. You are most likely deep into your most intense period of racing right now, with Championships and Spring Series events to attend. If you’ve been following along most of the season, your skis should be in good repair and it should only take you moments daily to keep them good for training, and a little longer for racing prep.

One aspect we have not discussed yet is the use of the BBQ brush. Often thought of as a spring only tool, it is often used year round. Many people approach the use of a BBQ brush as being only for the most skilled technicians, yet its proper use is within everyone’s realm.

In reality, you should have at your disposal 3 options(stiffest to softest) for BBQ’ing your skis: the traditional BBQ brush, the Home Depot Wooster Steel brush, and your everyday oval steel brush.

What exactly does a BBQ brush do? I like to think of it as a structure enhancer – it does not re-structure your skis, but rather makes the existing structure more pronounced, often a good thing in warmer snow. However, it also helps to open up more micro level pores in the base to accept & hold more wax, which can often make even a cold snow ski faster in its element. Additionally, proper use of a BBQ brush can help to remove base burn, too.

Without question there is a little bit of superstition involved in BBQ’ing your skis. Some top techs use it only when they need to find new speed in a ski; others use it weekly, no matter what; and still others never touch it at all. In my opinion, these varied approaches reflect the differences in ski bases, grinds, events, experience, and past successes of the technicians involved. As the saying goes, there is always more than 1 way to skin a cat!

So, how to do it? Simple. First, be sure that your skis are really secure in their vice. I use a jaw and 4 supports in my home workshop, and when I travel I use a jaw, two supports, and extension arms. This ensures that I can generate even, consistent pressure along the whole length of the ski from the very tip to the tail, with 5 points of contact always. If it’s your first time, it’s not a bad idea to have someone hold the opposite end of the ski to prevent it from “flying up” from the pressure you will put on it.

Second, decide which brush you want to use. The BBQ brush will do the most work; the Home Depot Wooster Steel is an intermediate (softer) version; and the oval round steel that you normally use everyday can be turned around backwards (Holmenkol or Toko version) and will have the least effect.

Now that you are fully secured, take your BBQ or Wooster brush, lay it on the very tip of the ski at a 45 angle, then press down firmly and evenly as you twist the brush handle to become level with the ski’s base. This will place a great deal of torque on the bristles themselves, and now it is time to hold that torque and move the brush down the ski. Is
you are using the oval steel (backwards), simply the lay the brush flat and press down with medium pressure as you move the brush down the ski. What you will see left behind will most likely scare you, but do not fear. I usually do 3-4 passes down the ski at this point with the BBQ.

Now, you have completed the BBQ process. It is time to clean the skis up and make them fast again. The stiff steel bristles have pulled up lots of base material, which needs to be shorn off using a very sharp plastic scraper. Be sure that you have no burrs on the scraper, and re-sharpen it after 3-4 passes down the ski. As you scrape the ski, you will remove most of the “fuzz” that the BBQ process has brought up. Continue until you can scrape no more fuzz from the ski.

Next, using your oval steel brush (in the correct direction), brush the skis vigorously from tip to tail. At this point, the skis should look equal to or even better than they did before! Finish up with some scotch-brite to cut any final micro-hairs, then brush extensively with a brass brush, and you are done! If you have a magnifying lens handy, this is a good time to check your bases to be sure there are no hairs left behind to slow you down. At this point, it is time to prepare the edges, wax, and get ready to go fast!

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EOF; $title = << word_characters(trim($title)), 'body' => word_characters(trim($body)), 'post_time' => '1:10 PM', 'post_date' => 'Wednesday, January 7, 2009', 'author_name' => 'Nick Schaffner', 'author_email' => 'nick@53x11.com', 'html_title' => preg_replace('/^http:\/\/\w+\.[A-z]+\/[0-9]+\/[0-9]+\/|\.html/','','http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/invite-your-skis-to-bbq-this-spring.html'), 'permalink' => 'http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/invite-your-skis-to-bbq-this-spring.html', 'comment_count' => '0 Comments', 'comment_link' => 'https://www.blogger.com/comment/fullpage/post/5450795819692377560/2170044421425857556' ); /* */ $body = <<After two long weeks away at industry trade shows, I returned home and headed off to an Eastern Cup FIS speed series in Sugarloaf, ME. The series was men & women, and consisted of two DH’s & a SG on a well prepared course, familiar to many of our readers.

I’ve had a few readers request a complete run-down of what happens to make a ski “race ready”, so I’ll tackle it here. But first, a few thoughts to remember: there is more than 1 way to get to the same result, and the real race is usually always won by the fastest skier that day!

The first two training days offered warm, sunny speed training – not much different than a great day in Colorado, except this was northern Maine. The result was a track that packed down and hardened up nicely when the inevitable deep freeze rolled back in, along with 75mph summits winds and occasional snow squalls. The course offered a relatively mild start, allowing the athletes build into a nice turning rhythm before being sent in the steeper headwall section, then exiting at their greatest speed into the more mild lower section, followed by about 20 seconds of basically flat running before the finish. In all, about 1:16 for the women, 1:13 for the men. Although a challenging downhill, the winner would clearly be the one who skied the upper turns the cleanest, and was able to carry the most speed into the lower gliding sections and hold on till the finish. It was a classic recipe requiring a good skier and good skis.

The skis came off the hill about 2pm on Wednesday, and went immediately into a heated garage to be separated and wiped down. As I waited for the skis to warm, I went online to check the www.NOAA.gov site for weather info and compare it to the snow & air data that I gathered at race time that day. There was a big weather change rolling in – the only question was how cold, how soon, and how much wind.

The skis had been raced on that day, so some mild edge work was in order. Since the weather was due to change (becoming drastically colder), I was betting that the humidity in the snow (mid) & air (high) would combine with falling air temps to “lock up” the snow. I wanted to be sure that the skis were a little sharper, and also highly polished. This took about 15 minutes for the pair. Since the course had quite a bit of gliding sections in the flats, I didn’t want the widest part of the outside edges causing any speed loss, so I softened up the outside “corners” about 4-6 inches with a gummi block. Because the skis had been properly prepared at the start of their life, I didn’t need to do any sidewall work – they were as smooth as the paint on a Ferrari. Next, a simple hot scrape cleaning was in order to be sure the skis were not holding any dirt (they were, due to warmer snow earlier in the week).

After hot scrape cleaning, some good brushing was in order. Using a stiff steel brush, then brass, I brushed the skis until they looked like they could be raced on. Then, using a sharp scraper, I began to scrape the skis down several times to remove the wax that the brushes brought up. Back to the steel, then brass brush again, and finally fiber fleece to remove the dust before base waxing.

The purpose of “base waxing” or wax layering is to give the wax above something to stick to, and also to give you a final, last layer of wax for the athlete to run on when all else is worn away (should the snow be that abrasive). I chose a simple hydrocarbon base wax for this purpose. After waxing, I immediately scrape the edges, tail cap, tip insert, and clean the sidewalls while the wax is still warm. Next, it was off to dinner!

Taking a long break for dinner gives you one last chance to re-think your final wax layer, as well as allowing the base wax to set up properly. I used this chance to check the weather service yet again and discovered that the forecast lows and highs had been moved down by another (projected) 5C. Outside, the wind was howling already.

The snow that day was extremely small grained, fine, old round snow; it was tightly packed, but also had a little bit of fresh, fine, sharp snow mixed in from the squalls. There were sections of the course that had classic eastern “ice”, really just tightly packed super humid old snow. In speed events, if one is to err to one side or another on the hardness of wax, it is generally always best to err to the warm side. The combination of two aggressive snow types mixed together, plus dropping temps, made me choose a wax that was exactly for the temp range of snow I expected – around -14C to -10C (exactly what we got, top to bottom).

Next up was the scraping and brushing of the base wax. At this point, it is easy to feel like you are home free, but you are not. If the base wax is not scraped and brushed very thoroughly, the skis can be slow the next day. I use an extremely sharp scraper and “peel’ the wax down (not ripping). Your wax scraper should be as sharp as your edges. Then, I work through a complete range of hand brushes, again starting with the stiff steel. Once done, I begin to re-scrape the ski, and go back to the stiff brass and work thru the range (stiffest to softest) again. Give yourself at least 30 minutes per pair for this step. Dust the skis again with fiber fleece, then apply your race wax. After you have scraped the edges, tips, tails, and cleaned the sidewalls, you are done for the night!

Up at 6am, heading back to the garage, the weather forecast and my assumptions were correct. The wind is howling off the peak, it is mostly sunny and clear, the air temp is -20C, and the snow has dried out and locked up. It looks like a great day to race! I spend another hour scraping and brushing the skis completely, and then secure them for transport, and head to the hill. Because the snow temp & air temp are so low, I know that all the brushing I have done while the skis is warm will need to be done again once the skis get cold.

At the start, I check the snow temp, -16C with about an hour to go before the race. The humidity is high (85%), the wind is blowing, and athletes and coaches are beginning to congregate at the start. The excitement is building, but there is still work to be done. Most simply lay their skis out, confident that their brushing inside has done the trick. I don’t leave it to chance – the low temps mean that any wax “hanging” from the base will be like an anchor to the athlete. I re-brush using a very soft steel brush (what I call a “cold start brush”) then a horsehair brush for about 10 minutes total. Next, I choose a block overlay for the cold snow, crayon it on, smooth it out with felt, & then brush out for about 3 minutes using horsehair. I always check that I have brushed the overlay out enough by “smearing” my thumb across the wax – if there is a smear mark created, I know I need to brush more! The start is within minutes, and the skis are carried to the wand.

One final dusting from tip to tail with fiber fleece, put the athlete in the bindings, wipe the edges free of any ice, clean the top sheets for vanity, and she is away. A little over a minute later, she has won the race and all the hard work has paid off. The prize – the best homemade cookies you can imagine!

Total time invested (speed skis) – around 3 hours from beginning to end. For tech events, plan on about 1 to 1 ½ hours total time invested. The key isn’t just the time invested, but breaking it up into three chunks – after training, after dinner, and early am. This format always yields the best results. Making your speed skis fast is just like skiing – intense focus on the fundamentals will yield the best results!

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EOF; $title = << word_characters(trim($title)), 'body' => word_characters(trim($body)), 'post_time' => '1:09 PM', 'post_date' => 'Tuesday, January 6, 2009', 'author_name' => 'Nick Schaffner', 'author_email' => 'nick@53x11.com', 'html_title' => preg_replace('/^http:\/\/\w+\.[A-z]+\/[0-9]+\/[0-9]+\/|\.html/','','http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/speed-race-prep.html'), 'permalink' => 'http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/speed-race-prep.html', 'comment_count' => '0 Comments', 'comment_link' => 'https://www.blogger.com/comment/fullpage/post/5450795819692377560/1836239090163691067' ); /* */ $body = <<Looking at the snow you are trying to wax for is as important as taking it’s temperature. Snow is as diverse as the all the areas around the world where it falls, yet we can group its shape & structure into a few main categories.

New snow has the sharp edged, crystalline form that is familiar to all. The size of the crystal can vary widely, though all are very delicate. The shape begins to transform almost immediately due to skiers, wind, and being compacted under its own weight. The crystal is harder at low temperatures and softer at warmer snow temperatures. Crystal size can be from 1mm to over 10mm. Generally, there is little friction in new snow, unless it has been compacted (from wind), which will increase its suction effect to the ski base.

New snow “transforms” into fine corn snow as a result of environmental factors, such as skiers, grooming equipment, wind, air temperature change, etc. When this happens, the fine crystal structure breaks off and the crystal becomes more rounded. This is the most common type of snow we encounter mid season here in VT. This type of snow produces less suction (due to lack of sharp crystals to break off) but does increase friction on the skis base (due to its more dense nature and rounded form). Size usually ranges from .5mm to 3mm. This type of crystal has H20 (water) bonded to its outer structure, and the thickness of this water is dependent on the snow temperature and/or air humidity. This is important to understand when considering fluoro overlays, which react well with greater amounts of H2O that may be present in the air and on the snow.

Coarse corn snow happens when the original form is completely gone, and the snow becomes a round structure with some sharp edges. This can occur as a result of repeated freezing and thawing (the H2O layer around the original crystal becomes very thick) or as a result of extensive snow grooming. You can see coarse corn snow throughout most of the season wherever the grooming machines make several passes each day. The friction of the spinning blades from the groomer accelerates the formation of coarse corn snow. This type of snow has virtually no suction, as there is a great deal of space between each snow crystal. However, it is extremely abrasive (high friction) on the skis base, and you must wax accordingly. Often times, due to the repeated freezing and thawing that has occurred to this type of snow, it contains a great deal of dirt, too. Grains here can range from 3mm to over 10mm.

Artificial snow may be the most difficult to understand completely, due to the incredible variety of machinery, air to water ratios, nozzle sizes, and outside weather. As a generalization, man made snow is very dense, has a dull (not fully formed) new snow crystal shape, and can be very wet. It exhibits the properties of high suction (due to its dense pack & sharp crystals) and high friction (due to its high water content that freezes around the sharp crystal. You will need a wax that is very abrasion & water resistant here.

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EOF; $title = << word_characters(trim($title)), 'body' => word_characters(trim($body)), 'post_time' => '1:06 PM', 'post_date' => 'Monday, January 5, 2009', 'author_name' => 'Nick Schaffner', 'author_email' => 'nick@53x11.com', 'html_title' => preg_replace('/^http:\/\/\w+\.[A-z]+\/[0-9]+\/[0-9]+\/|\.html/','','http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/snow-grain.html'), 'permalink' => 'http://starthaus.blogspot.com/2009/07/snow-grain.html', 'comment_count' => '0 Comments', 'comment_link' => 'https://www.blogger.com/comment/fullpage/post/5450795819692377560/5037572111608454485' ); /* */ $body = <<Even if you are not a National Team athlete, the right fit can be just around the corner for you. I caught up with Thor Verdonk, the Rossignol Alpine Technical Product Manager to get the low down how you can achieve your best results this season AND get the best boot fit possible.

Let’s start with the big concepts – your goal as an athlete is have your boots fit in the same way that an F1 driver has his seat fit. An F1 seat is designed for a driver pulling well over 4g’s in all directions (and over 20g when they crash), so comfort, performance, and safety are critical. No one wants to be sliding around in their seat when they drive at over 300kph, and you don’t want to be moving around in your boots as you hurtle down the course at 120kph. The secret to the concept lies in creating an equally minimal distance between you and the plastic of the boot, with a dash of padding thrown in for good measure.

One of the methods boot brands use to help get you started on the right foot is to create boots that are “plugged.” What exactly does that mean, you ask? When the boot is formed, the plastic is injected into a slightly smaller & less defined inner foot mold (the plug) allowing much more plastic thickness to be created. This significantly tightens up the inner section of the boot, and removes much of the comfort oriented sculpting that may have been present before in the regular mold. This also gets you much closer to the shell, and is what necessitates some custom work to make the boot usable.

While Thor can fit, cant, & lift junior program boots in about 45 – 60 minutes, he cautions that you should allow 2-3 hours for a competent shop to do the fitting. The time difference is likened to a mechanic being able to perform a similar job on the same brand of car every day, while your local shop needs to perform a wide range of overhauls on many different brands, and usually only for 3-6 months at a stretch.

So, what to look for? 1st, be sure your shop has the tools, the know how, and the credibility to do a good job. This is YOUR ski racing season, and you should endeavor to make it your best in every way possible. Shops should have all the tools you see in the photos here (photos of shop & tools that go with national team boot article).

Next up, size. “If it hurts, it’s probably the right size and needs to be worked on” says Thor. A few examples – all of Thor’s National Team athletes started at least 3 shell sizes above the shell they currently ski in – and one can bet they are more comfortable, too. In fact, there are no USST athletes on Rossi in a shell larger than a 7! For most juniors, Thor suggests going down 1-2 full sizes from your actual street shoe size.

To be even more accurate, follow these guidelines:

  1. Length & volume needs are adjusted for with shell size

  2. Pressure points are dealt with using punches, grinds, etc.

  3. Relative flex in the boot is not the most important aspect – this can be adapted easily

  4. Athletes should only have 1 finger (2 max for a very high volume foot) behind the heel when the bare foot is in the bare shell with the toes touching the front of the shell.

  5. Thor cautions that in most all instances with juniors, all it takes is a little grinding to change a “no-go” into a perfectly comfortable fit

  6. Your overall concept should be to “match your foot and customize a plastic shoe”. Don’t forget - the boot is an athletic shoe & your goal is to make the fit precise enough to allow you to perform athletically.

  7. The progression from larger to smaller shell sizes is not a “one time shot”, but usually takes a couple of years. For the athletes that are identified and sponsored around J3 level, this means that as they grow, they may change boots, but often times the only time the size changes is to go down. For full grown adults & masters racers, the 1-2 shell size rule works perfect, and perhaps you will reach 3 shell sizes down after a couple of years.
Another area to really check out is the mechanics of the boot. Thor suggests that “younger athletes should stay with boots that are hinged, and offer a mechanical flex”. Thor points out that boots with a hinged, mechanical design (whether jr or adult) will have a stiffer plastic than boots with a mono-block design, where the flex comes from leverage and plastic distortion. Thor points out that the R2003 is a junior, non-plugged version of the full adult racing plug boot, but that it offers a similar fit and identical mechanics to the adult boot.

Canting is extremely important, as well. In recent years we have seen canting go from a backroom specialty that was reserved only for those guaranteed not to sue, into a commonly offered and practiced science & art. There are many methods to achieve the goal in canting , and you need to work with your coach and your boot technician to be sure that your needs are being met.

Finally, footbeds. Thor offers that footbeds are extremely personal, and you should choose or not choose a footbed based on your particular needs and foot mechanics, in conjuction with someone who has your best performance at heart. Avoid the “one footbed” fits all approach – your feet are not like the next persons, so why should your footbed force you into a particular mechanic that is not correct for you?

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The season is upon us and El Nino has returned, promising to inundate the Sierra with snow. The anticipation of snow and the first turn is growing into a reality. After a long summer with a daily routine of 50 one legged squats (or 12 oz. curls in the lazy boy) you're body is ready for the slopes. But before we get too carried away, you should know that the first day or two on the slopes can be the best time for you to improve your technique and make the rest of the season even more enjoyable.

The first few runs can produce some of the clumsiest sensations you will feel during the entire season. You're rusty, that's natural. Believe it or not, that rust can also work to your advantage because it makes you more open to improving your technique. Old, bad habits are also rusty, and are easier to change. Now is the time to get rid of them before they return. So let's look at the very foundation of your skiing, the stance, and work towards perfecting it.

The stance is critical because all other skiing movement builds upon it. If your stance is unbalanced, your skiing will always be inherently unstable, causing you to work harder, fatigue more quickly, and increase your risk of injury. No matter how many one leg squats (or 12 oz. curls) I do, if I'm not centered, my legs will be on fire half way down the hill! The better a skier is at maintaining a good middle position on his or her skis, the easier it is to achieve higher quality, efficient skiing.

A balanced, centered position is achieved through constant movement. Every time a turn is initiated, the center of mass should move forward. Take a look at the skier shown, notice how his shins are parallel to his spine, and how both are perpendicular to the hill. The importance of this position relates to basic biomechanics. As the joints bend slightly, the muscles start to contract; this puts the body into a "ready" state. Therefore, the skier is able to make quick and explosive movements when needed for terrain and snow variations.

To attain this centered position, move your navel (center of mass) toward the tips of your skis. You can experiment in the lift line. Go ahead and lean forward until the front of the boot is felt on your shins. Do not lower your stance to feel the boot. You should almost feel your heels lift off the bottom of the boot. Remember, we are talking about continuous movement. The center of mass leads the way and the result is the shins contacting the cuff of the boots. Such movement will permit your weight to move toward the tip of the ski. This movement should initiate the turn. Now go try this on the hill. The outcome of forward pressure makes for an easier entry into the turn. Another way to visualize this is to think about letting your body lead the way down the hill. The skis will follow. When done correctly, you should feel like you are freefalling down the hill. If you have ever taken a lesson, this movement is commonly referred to as an extension movement.

The beginning of the turn is only the...well, beginning. The turn starts with pressure on the ball of the foot. As the arc continues, your weight should move toward your heel. Keep in mind; all three joints (the ankle, knee, and hip) must flex equally in order to achieve perpendicularity to the hill. Once you feel the entire arch flatten in the boot, you've gone far enough. Now move forward again. The quickness of this fore and aft movement determines the radius of the turn. Quicker movement shortens the turn and slower movement lengthens the radius.

You don't need snow to work on a centered position. At home, stand in your living room and rock back and forth. Notice how the weight moves from the ball to the heel. Remember, you should only rock back enough to feel equal pressure along the entire foot. If we move too far back, the legs will lock out and prevent most movements. The result on skis can be a "jetting" affect. In other words, the skis will shoot out ahead of the body and your skiing will quickly transform into a wild Rodeo Ride. When you think you've got it, close your eyes and do it some more. Closing the eyes will help you feel your balance more precisely. Performing this exercise for a few minutes a day will help to build it into muscle memory-and to prepare you for the snow.


When you get to the snow, you don't want to just ride up to the top of "Death Cornice for Those with Immense Egos Run." A better idea would be to slow things down for the first several runs. That's right, warm up on a run that you consider to be very easy. No need to take this at a ballistic pace, since you camped out in the parking lot all night waiting for the lifts to open, you have all day to ski. Force yourself to ski at 25%. Slowing down the movements not only pumps blood and loosens up rusty muscles, it lets the brain and muscles start working in conjunction again. It allows you to maintain control of your movements, imprinting proper technique into your muscles. Ski too fast and you will rely on strength rather than technique. Don't be embarrassed to be seen on a non-extreme slope, most top-skiers warm up gently whenever they ski.

The first few days on the hill can be as good as any, and may be more important for your development as a skier than the season that will follow. Start off slow and build from there. Before you know it you will be back in form, and skiing better than ever.

The first day or two on the slopes can be the best time for you to improve your technique and make the rest of the season even more enjoyable.

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