Virtually every ski today comes from the factory with a high quality stone grind, and often the base edge is “relieved” from the base material. This is a description for a factory process where the base steel is made roughly parallel to the base material, but set very slightly below the level of the plastic. When you, your coach, or your favorite shop inspect the factory base bevel, be sure to determine if the base side steel is actually angled (and how much) or if it is relieved.

One way to check your base bevel is to lay your true bar across the ski and carefully hold the bar flush against one base edge, testing in several spots along both edges of the ski. If you can lay the true bar flush against the steel, you have a base angle. Does the true bar just touch the corner of the steel & the base material? If so, you have base edge relief. Now examine the gap that is present on the other side of the true bar. Measure this gap in several places along the length of the ski. Ideally, it is consistent throughout the ski’s length. I like to see between 1-2 mm of consistent gap under the true bar – of course this is personal, and you need to test yourself to decide what is best. I also like to use an old gap dwelling tool or valve clearance guide to measure this distance (bonus points if you have one lying around!).

Many athletes will choose to start at one half degree and test from there. Remember, it is always easier to increase base bevel angle. Decreasing the angle requires extensive, precise, and very skilled stone grinding. Be sure to set every ski you own for that given discipline at the same angle, and check for consistency of angle throughout the season.
As far as the actual technique of applying the base bevel, just follow a few simple guidelines:The base bevel is the "heart & soul" of the ski. Small changes in the bevel contribute drastically to the skis on snow feel, performance, and ski-ability.

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